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June, 2007
July, 2007
Sunglasses and burhkas
Thursday, July 05 2007 - 07:36
I enjoyed getting around Mombasa on my own (as opposed to being overprotected by our cabdriver from Diani Beach, who wanted to drive us and hire guides for us everywhere).  I had an appointment with a woman who had helped found an interfaith group as well as a Muslim human rights organization, and she told me to take a tuk-tuk to the Old Law Courts on the border of the Old City.  Tuk-tuks, as Tom said, are tiny three-wheeler taxis that bounce up and off of curbs and have never seen a seat-belt.  One pulled over with two women,in the back, faces and bodies clad in full black burkhas with openings only for eye slits, and the driver motioned me in. I thought the women might be uncomfortable having me with them, but they moved over immediately and the driver said he was dropping them off soon.  I saw they were quite young, and one who spoke English asked me where I was from, how I liked Mombasa, and whether I had children.  As we were chatting, I took off my sunglasses and she said, "You have such lovely eyes -- why do you cover them?"  If I hadn't been bouncing around already I probably would have fallen off my seat. 
The architecture and mosques of the Old Town are beautiful, and there was more work for me in and around Mombasa than could be done in the three days we spent there.  That, the fact that the children still want to take a tuk-tuk, the beautiful beaches with monkeys running around them, and the warm Indian Ocean water -- I guess we'll just have to go back someday!
Now that we're home and using faster computers (at least sometimes) we'll try to put a few pictures up on this site.  Stay tuned for the final test of the family's blogging abilities... .
And we're back
Thursday, July 05 2007 - 07:21
After 16 days, and a prolonged return journey encompassing 38 hours and four flights, we returned to Long Beach safe and sound last night, and zonked.  We have continued to zonk today, and are pretty much sleep-walking when not sleeping.

Our last days in Mombasa were great, the highlight (for me) being what is called here a "dhow safari," which is taking a boat ride to a protected reef off the coast and snorkeling.  The ocean life was vibrant, with some amazing fish and coral.  We were on a fairly international boat, populated by Germans, Brits, French and others.  The guides were great.  After snorkeling for an hour, we returned for a lovely lunch on Wasini Island, a brief siesta and then a return to the mainland.  Unfortunately, the trip ended on a bit of sour note, as our guides, who rely on tips to supplement their very meager salaries, received from some of our fellow travelers -- I kid you not -- one US dollar, or less.  These guys drove the boat, led the snorkeling, including helping teach those who had never snorkeled, served drinks on the boat and were our waiters at lunch, and in every way helped make the day wonderful, and these people could not see their way clear to cough up a meaningful bit of change?  I was embarrassed.

Mombasa was also quite interesting.  It is a more heavily Muslim area than Nairobi, and that influence is quite clearly felt.  I will let Cecelia tell you about her experience riding in a Tuk-Tuk, a small three wheel taxi, with two Muslim women in full Burkhas.  The main tourist attraction is, oddly enough, Fort Jesus, which the Portuguese built when they claimed the region.  There is also an old town, marked by narrow and winding streets.

We stayed at Tiwi Beach, which is south of Mombasa, and just north of the main resort area, known as Diani Beach.  Coral Cove Cottages were nice, if simple, with balky hot water but a beautiful beach.  And, I can now add the Indian Ocean to the list of the seven seas in which I have splashed.  Quite warm, actually, and a beautiful shade of blue.

I will let the others add there own posts, and perhaps overall reflections.  For now, it's back to sleep.  Tom


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